"Mate", an Argentine Ritual

Nothing captures the essence of the Argentine culture more than the preparation and consumption of mate. Mate is an elaborate ritual that you see transpiring on the streets, in the boutiques, behind the newsstand, in the bus terminal, at the neighborhood park, on the bus, at the arts and crafts shows, and basically anywhere where one can take a thermos(for hot water), mate(gourd), yerba(the tea) and a bombilla(the straw with a filter). Leather bags are made just for the transportation of the "mate".

There is an informal etiquette for preparing and drinking Mate. The cebador(server) fills the gourd(mate) almost to the top with the yerba(tea), then pours very hot water into the gourd(mate). It is then passed along to the group, being friends, family or coworkers. Sharing is key. Each participant drinks the gourd dry and then hands it back to the cebador, who then gives to the next person in a clockwise direction. The bombilla is the "silver straw like" thing that has a built in filter.

I was fascinated by the whole cultural thing taking pictures whenever I could with out being rude. I did some reading about it but really enjoyed seeing it transpire around us where ever we traveled.

Check out my "Mate Moments" Slide Show:

Old news: Buenos Aires Meatless? Later, Under Smoke?

Upon our return from the cruise around Cape Horn, we entered our previous apartment, so it felt like returning home again. However, things weren't all quite the same as we settled in so to speak. Of course, one of the first things to do besides UNPACK again was to head to the grocery store and restock the kitchen. Coto supermercado wasn't quite the same though. When I got there, the shelves were meatless except for some frozen chicken and the fresh vegetables were scarce? Watch this:

You Tube: Wheres the beef?

The farmers in protest blocked the roads so that meats and vegtables in addition to other items could not be easily delivered to the city of Buenos Aires. And did you hear this debate between the government and the farmers went on for over 19 days? Can you imagine? No one starved mind you. Just a little inconvenience for a cause.

We had just missed one of the protests that took place ALL over the city. Here's a sample of it:

You Tube: Grab your pot and pan

Did you notice whole families participating, peacefully?

Next event was the smoke that permeated the air throughout the city. Watch this:

You Tube: Buenos Aires under Smoke

I'm sure our friends out west in the USA are completely familiar with the dilemma of permeating smoke in their communities due to our raging fires set by careless people. This was our first experience with it. So people with problems flooded the hospitals. Others just put on a cloth mask as they went to work. Others just stayed inside. Although you did at times get the smell in the apartment.

Gallery Nights! Don't miss it!

GALLERY NIGHTS, whether you are an art connoisseur or just an admirer of it, you don't want to miss it! If you are visiting during the last Friday of a month, except during summer time(January and February), check it out. Each Gallery Night there is a new route and tour of the galleries. Some businesses feature an artist's display for the evening and regular art galleries along the route are open. All are serving a free glass of champagne and offering an opportunity to meet the artists as you admire their creations. You can see the route of the tour on a map before you head out. Just go to the website I linked in the beginning sentence and you can translate it easily with babel fish. Once you arrive at any of the 60 or so galleries, they will give you a brochure of the evening's gallery tour locations with a map of the route. So you walk a little, admire some art, drink some champagne, and watch the streets come ALIVE with people all dressed for the occasion.

Feria de San Telmo Return Visit

After cruising, we returned to our same apartment in BA. Our friends the Willbanks wanted to visit San Telmo for their first time so we returned. Here are more pictures of what you can expect to see at this antique hippy style arts and crafts affair!

Over 8 blocks on a street called "Defensa" are closed exclusively for this fair every Sunday. From Plaza Dorrego to Pasaje San Lorenzo you will find the unusual.

Crayons of all colors.

If you are LUCKY, you'll catch a Tango show in the streets. Just leave a tip in the hat!

Musicians play throughout the day.

Have any dust? Get your handmade feather duster right here.

No flower vans allowed on this street.

I'll post a blog on this contraption soon...

Randall bought his first hand woven bracelet from this man. I think it's wonderful to give to those who are willing to work for some money.

Pierno's Italian Restaurant with a little bit of wine before we dine!

An excellent Italian restaurant conveniently located one block from our apartment called Pierno's is a must do. The owners are just wonderful, the food is excellent, and the atmosphere is perfect. Pierno's is written up in the "Time Out magazine" for Buenos Aires. Want to know where all the great restaurants are in Buenos Aires? Time Out Buenos Aires has a well organized list categorized by neighborhood and then by food type. I have used this source with great luck and have really learned a lot about the food and where the hot spots are in all areas of the city. You can buy the latest issue at most new stands in the tourist areas such as Florida Street or anywhere in central BA. Click here to see whats available for your next trip. They feature over 120 cities worldwide and are growing I'm sure.

Also above is pictured one of our favorite Argentine wines. I took the picture so we can look for it when we return. I hate to think of what it may cost in the states. Here it 18 peso which equates to $6. Oh my, we may have "sticker shock" upon our return to the states! Maybe one of you may look for it next time you head to the state store and let us know.

BOOKSHELF trade

Between our guests arrival and departure, Randall traded some of his expertise and time for a membership to a very excellent club, the South American Explorers. We met Kate who works at the club during an "expat party". She explained they were in dire need of a simple bookshelf!! Of course you know Randall, he can make just about anything!! So, he did. Using a loaned jigsaw, a drill, his leatherman and scrap lumber, he constructed the above bookshelf. Nothing fancy, but it works and serves the purpose.

If you are ever planning a trip to any country in South America especially Peru or Argentina, you will want to explore THIS WEBSITE!! While you will only get a sampling of the information, you will see that it is worth it to become a member to get the rest!

Happy visitors...

I think my dad and Lou enjoyed their visit. I wish I would have taken a picture of all the leather items they purchased. We discovered 2 EXCELLENT custom tailored LEATHER manufactures. The first one Randall stumbled upon on Avenida Cordoba 3573(that is how they label street addresses) which is located only 2 blocks or so from our apartment. What a superb find!! They are the MANUFACTURES of the TOP quality leather goods!! You will find what they make with various labels in retail stores. One of the labels is LOPEZ. So for almost 2 times the price you can buy the leather goods with the LOPEZ label on the SAME item or you can just show up at the manufacturer, buy direct custom made leather goods for 1/2 the retail price. We verified this down town near Avenida Floridia, the walking street, filled with leather retailers! So now you know where to get a customized great deal!

The other GREAT leather store is a one man operation. He designs and makes custom fit leather goods from pants to jackets all available and done in one location. His quality and prices were excellent but I can't share the information until I get my hands on his card. I'm sure with our next visitors in about 1 week, we will be revisiting both locations! The details will follow soon.

Jardin Japonse: huge, green, relaxing...

The Japanese Garden is another gate way for peace from the hustle and bustle of the city. Inside the garden you will find ponds, arched bridges, a garden house filled with bonsai trees, orchids and other items, and a sushi restaurant. For all the details click here, Jardin Japonse. As I saw on their website a visit in the Spring will offer more diversity in colors.

Crafts, Artwork, Musicians, Tango...

EVERY weekend there are street markets near by where one can find an assortment of quality handmade crafts and vibrant artwork while enjoying local musicians, food and sometimes tango dancers!

earthy colors

striking beads and seeds

real live statues?

check out the old piano

passionate singers

#1
Where?
In San Telmo called the Feria de San Telmo,
walk along Defensa between Plaza Dorrego and Parque Lezama all of that area and some beyond

When?
Sundays 10am - 5pm

What?
antiques, jewelry, gaucho items, artwork, vintage clothing, collectibles, silver ware, sidewalk cafes, mimes, music, tango shows free, leather goods, mate gourds...

#2
Where?
In Recoleta called the Feria Artesanal
located right next to the famous Recoleta Cemetery in Plaza Intendente Alvear

When?
Saturdays and Sundays 10am - 7pm

What?
100 's of booths selling leather accessories, jewelry, hats, knives, mate mugs, clothes, woven shawls, tons of various craft items, food vendors...


In my opinion these are the biggies, but stay tuned there are more for more in futures posts!!

Botantical Beauty in the City?

Off of the bustling street of Avenida Santa Fe, we entered the Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays. When you are continually surrounded by cars, buildings, people and buses, a stroll through the Botanical Garden takes you to peace and tranquility. During the heat of the day, you'd never know that this garden houses HUNDREDS of cats. Randall and I had been here at the close of the park one early evening watching 100's of cats roam the grounds, lounge on the steps, roll in the grass. While at the park one sunny afternoon with my dad and his wife Lou, we maybe saw one cat? I guess they hide under the greens for heat relief!

Colorful Images of Buenos Aires...

Yesterday was a fantastic day with a city tour called Images of BA done in English by a reputable tour company, Eternautas. It was a excellent way to learn pieces of Buenos Aires History while seeing several of the famous barrios(neighborhoods).

One of the most colorful barrios in BA is La Boca, a working class neighborhood. In the late 1800's, Argentina's agricultural exports where taking off attracting thousands of immigrants from mostly Spain and Italy. Upon arrival, they realized the land was unaffordable and they were not able to take advantage of the farming. So, they settled in the southern end of BA at the mouth of the river known as La Boca working in slaughter houses, meat packing plants and other various industries. According to historians, they were so poor that they couldn't afford to buy paint for their homes which were pieced together out of corrugated metal sheets. Located near the ship yard they would seek the left over paint from the boat builders. Not having enough left overs of just one color, they would use several.

After admiring the brightly colored town filled with art work and crafts, dad was approached by this sexy young tango dancer and we couldn't resist a picture...